Is it the harissa? The preserved lemons? There’s something about the mussels at SR24, a newish eatery tucked away in a strip mall in Oakland’s appetizing Temescal district, that makes them the best the Geezer can remember in many moons. The mussels themselves are local of course, from Point Reyes, sautéed with shallots and garlic and deglazed with pernod. But it’s the broth that’s a killer. You’ll never finish it so bring a container and take it home with you. SR24 doesn’t appear to have a website but there’s plenty about it when you google it. About the name: SR24 refers to the freeway that passes a few block away.

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