The city doesn’t go dead on Christmas day. You might be surprised at the number of restaurants still serving on the holiday. Most of the larger hotel dining rooms are open as are many Chinese establishments, like the great R&G Lounge on Kearney. In North Beach both Fior d’Italia and Stinking Rose will welcome you. Alioto’s and many Fisherman’s Wharf eateries offer their regular menus. And the weirdness that is Buca di Peppo south of Market will make it a hilarious Noel.