Bay seniors who haven’t gotten on board the locavore express, should fill their gas tanks and head to Osteria Stellina in Pt. Reyes Station. The inventively Italian menu is headlined by very local seafood, most notably an oyster topped pizza with cream braised shallots and a saffron seafood stew with plump mussels that are about as rich as foie gras. I loathe the foodie term “unctuous” but these mussels certainly are. Highly recommended to visit in the midst of a winter storm when West Marin resembles the funereally beautiful coast of Scotland.

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