Suddenly this summer San Francisco is awash in 20th century French masters. The Stein lollapalooza at SFMOMA is beyond overwhelming as are the crowds. For a more private showing we suggest the intimate confines of the Berggruen Gallery on Grant Avenue where a couple of dozen Matisse drawings and prints are on view until July 30. What he can do with a few simple, gentle lines on paper will have you agog. Free.