Bay seniors know that if they lust for a romantic/authentic dinner in the French countryside they should head to Grant and Green in North Beach where Café Jacqueline has been serving ethereal soufflés for decades. The place is petit – there are only a handful of tables and the décor is simple, creamy walls glowing in the candlelight. Though Mme. Jacqueline offers onion soup and endives with Roquefort, her heart is in her soufflés. Eight savory ones from simple gruyere to lobster ($28-60, serves two) and six lighter than clouds desserts from dark chocolate to Grand Marnier ($32-40). Wed-Sun only.