Bay seniors know real creativity is happening here, not in art or music studios or on stages, but in kitchens. The Geezer happened to be dining at State Bird Provisions the night it received the James Beard Best New Restaurant in the US award. The gimmick is inventive California cuisine served dim sum style off small carts. The frantic staff acts as if a Defcon alert had just gone off. By contrast a recent lunch at the ancient (29 years now) Mustard’s near Yountville was mobbed but manageable and the food as stellar as ever (don’t think of leaving with trying the ahi spring rolls). Reservation are de rigueur at both restaurants, though State Bird Provisions is harder to get into than North Korea.



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